Autolite 1100 Carburetor

Autolite 1100 carburetor parts.All technical information including videos assume parts used are our brand. Parts from other sources may not install, or function the same way.
About the Autolite 1100 Carburetor

  • The Autolite 1100 one-barrel carburetor was included on 170″ & 200″, 1963-69.
  • 1963-1967 (some) came with a spark control valve.
  • 1968 – The venturi size was changed to 1.10 and there was no control valve.
    The distributor was changed to use a mechanical advance
    instead of using the venturi vacuum previously.
  • 1967-1969
    – Two diaphragms were used. The added
    diaphragm is used as an anti stall dashpot. Only one diaphragm was used prior to 1967
  • Correct venturi size for Mustangs was 1.10″, or 1.20″
  • When no tag is present, Identification can be done by inspecting the base. You can sometimes find a Ford part number there.

Buy your Autolite 1100 carburetor kit here.

Free Autolite 1100 manuals

1968-69 Autolite 1100

Power Valve

At higher speeds, the engine vacuum drops which causes the power valve to open and allow more fuel to flow.
Autolite 1100 Choke

Do not remove the power valve assembly when rebuilding, but it does need to be free to easily move up and down. For sticky power valves spray liberally with silicon spray lubricant and work it up and down until it is free. Worst case is you will have to remove the clean out plug on the top of the carburetor so that you can get at the cylinder for cleaning. You will need a new clean out plug, or patch up the old plug with JB weld (don’t get any inside). A surge at high speeds (steady throttle) might indicate a power valve
problem. Change the power valve timing to open sooner (at less throttle opening) by adding additional calibrating shims, on power valve rod (see illustration above). If less than 4 shims found on rod, add 4 shims; if more than 4 shims found on rod, add fewer number. Total number of shims on rod must not exceed 8. These shims are not produced and you only want to take the power valve apart as a last resort.

Autolite 1100 Main Jet

This is where the Autolite 1100 main jet resides. Due to the difference in gasoline, the jet size that was originally installed on the 1100 isn’t that relevant anymore. Be sure you are using the correct jet size, otherwise you chance ruining your engine. Test your main jet
by running your vehicle for 20 minutes at a sustained speed. Pull a spark plug and look at the color. Gray is perfect. White means you are too lean and need to move up one size.
Black is too much fuel and you need to move down one size. Do this one size at a time until you get a good gray colored plug. This test is only valid when your engine and electrical system are good condition.
Autolite 1100 Jet

1966 Rough Idle & Poor Fuel Economy Correction.

This condition may be caused by the fuel bowl vent valve being out of adjustment. Check and adjust the vent valve each time the carburetor idle speed adjustment is made. 

Buy your Autolite 1100 Main Jets.

Did you lose your check weight?

Autolite 1100

These are no longer available, but you can make your own. Use a 3/16″ aluminum rod, cut 9/16″ long. File the end a bit as pictured. Weight will end up being about 1 gram.

Watcha video about On The Bench Adjustments

Watch a video about rebuilding the Autolite 1100 carburetor. Part 1 – Teardown

Question
I seem to have a problem with my carb that I rebuilt recently. It is a C8PF-D on my 1963,170 cu in Falcon with auto trans. Its a manual choke and has the spark control system and a diaphram on each side. We adjusted the mixture screw till it ran nice and took it for a small drive. Upon returning it would not idle hardly and was running very rough. We adjusted the mixture screw again and it started runnning properly agian. The next drive we took it ran great, but when we arrived home the same rough running and no idle was present agian. It acually died on us instead of idling. My question is if the mixture
screw is backing itself off due to vibrations etc.? Could the screw or spring be worn out or could it be the carb hole and threads worn out? I hope you have run across this before and can point me in the right direction. I thought about loctite to hold it, or maybe a new
spring and screw.

Answer
1st off don’t use anything on the threads. That would probably ruin the carburetor. It does seem the screws are moving from vibration. I would replace the idle mixture screw and spring.

Watch a video about the Autolite 1100 Flooding Troubleshooting

 


I am having an issue with my autolite 1100 stumbling when under way. Everything is fine at rest. I notice if I sit on the fender and rock the car the engine begins to stumble. When I set the float level I used the Fuel system service instruction worksheet provided in your rebuild kit and it stated to set the float level to 1 – 3/32 for my 65 Mustang 200 A/T, which I did. Do you think its possible I would need to set the float level higher or do I possibly have something else going on? Fuel pump filter and strainer are all 2 months old. As is the carb rebuild.

The 1st thing that comes to mind is that the flow bowl is warped. Check my video about fixing the 1904 with heat. Same idea.

Recent Posts

Mustang You Gotta Love

Here is an interesting story from one of my customers. We were discussing some of the problems he was having with his Motorcraft 4300 and shared his story with me.

mustang 1

These 4300s did run for some people, at least a mile or two off the lot. When the carb didn’t flood, I really enjoyed the heck out of it. Dad got the ‘Stang from the original owner in ’85 – a nurse who drove it back and forth to work since she started college in ’68. I started working on the car when I was 18 and a novice. Back then you could find interesting random things in the boneyard, even if you had no idea what they were. Every time I saw something different in the junkyard I bolted it on the car. I had no idea what I was doing back then AT ALL so I scrounged around in the busted metal and replaced the Autolite 2100 carb with the aforementioned “Frankenstein” 4300 (unconsciously amalgamated from several T-Bird & Falcon carbs), an intake manifold off a ’66 4-bbl. Mustang, the rear anti-sway bar off a Boss 302, the tall 4-bbl carb spacer off a ’64 Galaxie, the Cyclone headers and fat dump-off exhaust pipes off a Boss 351 as a complete set out of a guy’s garage for $40 back in ’89, and here I am at almost age 50 still with good vision and reflexes with actually still a matching # car if I pull the parts out of the attic except for the original 2-bbl carb which burned up in a 2011 shed fire. And the VIN-matching engine has 164K miles, heads rebuilt by original owner at 70K, and I have flogged it like a rented mule for 30 years come September, with only one C4 rebuild in ’88 and good compression all around.

mustang 2

Back in the ’80s my brothers crashed it 3 times including a diagonal head-on, and then my best friend took out the entire left side backing up out of his garage without looking. The other brother lost control on a “deadman’s” curve and almost launched it at speed off a cliff into a condo subdivision (because he says the tilt-wheel popped up on him – hmm) but just before shooting into space he swerved and folded up the right-front suspension on the retaining curb like an aircraft landing gear. The best friend also lost control & drove through three front yards and a hedge as I tried to teach him to drive, and before I could yank the key he took out an entire sprinkler system that had just been fabbed, still above ground, because he didn’t understand (!) how to use the steering wheel to straighten the car once turning (!). Bumped over a juniper bush & caromed off a light pole dragging new PVC pipes out into the street – my young cousin screaming bloody murder in the back seat – she is now a college professor – and I found a long sprinkler riser and head lodged in the left coil spring when I got home & investigated the noise.I felt very bad because I knew a lot of work had gone into that front yard. That was long ago and we were so very young –  I was dumb to try to teach my friends and brothers to drive in a 289. But they never bent the frame. Used to do 109 on the 1.02-mile strip on the front side of what later became Louis Zamperini Field airport in Torrance, California (same war veteran that Angelina Jolie made “Unbroken” about) before they built all the auto dealerships on Pacific Coast Highway and trafficked up the area. No cell phones back then and anyway no reaction time – they wouldn’t have helped: We’d have one friend wait at the first stop sign halfway down the one-mile strip and flash a flashlight if a car came and another one at the end of the mile to do the same – if no one flashed you’d blow through the mid-way stop at full throttle (109 was the top speed you could make with the 2-bbl before hitting the T-intersection) and the front end would start lifting up on those old Mustangs, the steering getting skittery-light and at the end if no flash then squeal hard and sideways into the intersection at the T as fast as you dared, about 70mph hitting the stop sign jumping on the disc brakes and smoking sideways wrestling the wheel, flat on the Boss sway bar so that you could record your fastest time at the very end of the Airport-Road run.

mustang 3

I still love ramrodding this survivor car when back in California, hammering hard fast and true, in the desert, snow and open road along the coast. I’ve had snow flying crosswise through the missing windows at 10,000 feet but with the Boss 302 sway bar and the right BF Goodrich T/As (P215-70R14 front, P235-70R14 rear) it handles like a champ and I don’t yet want to give up on the carb problem.

There’s my story – :)

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