Autolite 1100 Carburetor

Autolite 1100 carburetor parts.All technical information including videos assume parts used are our brand. Parts from other sources may not install, or function the same way.
About the Autolite 1100 Carburetor

  • The Autolite 1100 one-barrel carburetor was included on 170″ & 200″, 1963-69.
  • 1963-1967 (some) came with a spark control valve.
  • 1968 – The venturi size was changed to 1.10 and there was no control valve.
    The distributor was changed to use a mechanical advance
    instead of using the venturi vacuum previously.
  • 1967-1969
    – Two diaphragms were used. The added
    diaphragm is used as an anti stall dashpot. Only one diaphragm was used prior to 1967
  • Correct venturi size for Mustangs was 1.10″, or 1.20″
  • When no tag is present, Identification can be done by inspecting the base. You can sometimes find a Ford part number there.

Buy your Autolite 1100 carburetor kit here.

Free Autolite 1100 manuals

1968-69 Autolite 1100

Power Valve

At higher speeds, the engine vacuum drops which causes the power valve to open and allow more fuel to flow.
Autolite 1100 Choke

Do not remove the power valve assembly when rebuilding, but it does need to be free to easily move up and down. For sticky power valves spray liberally with silicon spray lubricant and work it up and down until it is free. Worst case is you will have to remove the clean out plug on the top of the carburetor so that you can get at the cylinder for cleaning. You will need a new clean out plug, or patch up the old plug with JB weld (don’t get any inside). A surge at high speeds (steady throttle) might indicate a power valve
problem. Change the power valve timing to open sooner (at less throttle opening) by adding additional calibrating shims, on power valve rod (see illustration above). If less than 4 shims found on rod, add 4 shims; if more than 4 shims found on rod, add fewer number. Total number of shims on rod must not exceed 8. These shims are not produced and you only want to take the power valve apart as a last resort.

Autolite 1100 Main Jet

This is where the Autolite 1100 main jet resides. Due to the difference in gasoline, the jet size that was originally installed on the 1100 isn’t that relevant anymore. Be sure you are using the correct jet size, otherwise you chance ruining your engine. Test your main jet
by running your vehicle for 20 minutes at a sustained speed. Pull a spark plug and look at the color. Gray is perfect. White means you are too lean and need to move up one size.
Black is too much fuel and you need to move down one size. Do this one size at a time until you get a good gray colored plug. This test is only valid when your engine and electrical system are good condition.
Autolite 1100 Jet

1966 Rough Idle & Poor Fuel Economy Correction.

This condition may be caused by the fuel bowl vent valve being out of adjustment. Check and adjust the vent valve each time the carburetor idle speed adjustment is made. 

Buy your Autolite 1100 Main Jets.

Did you lose your check weight?

Autolite 1100

These are no longer available, but you can make your own. Use a 3/16″ aluminum rod, cut 9/16″ long. File the end a bit as pictured. Weight will end up being about 1 gram.

Watcha video about On The Bench Adjustments

Watch a video about rebuilding the Autolite 1100 carburetor. Part 1 – Teardown

I seem to have a problem with my carb that I rebuilt recently. It is a C8PF-D on my 1963,170 cu in Falcon with auto trans. Its a manual choke and has the spark control system and a diaphram on each side. We adjusted the mixture screw till it ran nice and took it for a small drive. Upon returning it would not idle hardly and was running very rough. We adjusted the mixture screw again and it started runnning properly agian. The next drive we took it ran great, but when we arrived home the same rough running and no idle was present agian. It acually died on us instead of idling. My question is if the mixture
screw is backing itself off due to vibrations etc.? Could the screw or spring be worn out or could it be the carb hole and threads worn out? I hope you have run across this before and can point me in the right direction. I thought about loctite to hold it, or maybe a new
spring and screw.

1st off don’t use anything on the threads. That would probably ruin the carburetor. It does seem the screws are moving from vibration. I would replace the idle mixture screw and spring.

Watch a video about the Autolite 1100 Flooding Troubleshooting


I am having an issue with my autolite 1100 stumbling when under way. Everything is fine at rest. I notice if I sit on the fender and rock the car the engine begins to stumble. When I set the float level I used the Fuel system service instruction worksheet provided in your rebuild kit and it stated to set the float level to 1 – 3/32 for my 65 Mustang 200 A/T, which I did. Do you think its possible I would need to set the float level higher or do I possibly have something else going on? Fuel pump filter and strainer are all 2 months old. As is the carb rebuild.

The 1st thing that comes to mind is that the flow bowl is warped. Check my video about fixing the 1904 with heat. Same idea.

Recent Posts

O2 Sensors – Engine Performance from a Capsule

O2 Sensors – Engine Performance from a Capsule

Long gone are the days when car engine were simply using 4, 6 or 8 pistons, a carburetor and a few other auxiliary elements in order to make the vehicle move forward. While, from a mechanic’s point of view, such powertrain units were simpler and easier to fix or upgrade, they featured a big downside: efficiency.

More efficient thermal engines needed a way to create a better mixture of fuel and air and make use of better motion delivering mechanisms, all to generate a bigger power output. While various materials have replaced iron in engine construction to ensure a higher degree of kinematic movement, to enhance air and fuel mixture, you would first need to figure out how much of each product gets mixed within the cylinder.

Obviously you can’t just section a running engine in half to check it out; this is how the need of O2 sensors was created.

Where and how does it work?

In case you are wondering, yes, your car is most likely to have at least one oxygen sensor mounted right at the end of the exhaust manifold. It’s just one of the dozen sensors modern cars use in order to increase efficiency and power output; after all, that’s what all is about: getting more and more of it.

If the term O2 sensor or oxygen sensor doesn’t sound familiar to you, it may be because this very same capsule with a wire at the end is also called a lambda sensor.

Does that ring any bells?

The placement of the O2 sensor on the exhaust manifold isn’t random; in fact, that is the best place to create a precise estimate on how much oxygen actually gets used in the air-gas mixture happening inside the cylinders. There are two main cases:

  1. Too much oxygen

When there’s too much oxygen used while mixing air and fuel, we are calling it a lean mixture. What happens is that during the mix, the air to fuel ratio (AFR) exceeds its preset value. To create a better picture, a regular gasoline engine works at an AFR of about 14.7:1. This means that for every part of gasoline, 14.7 parts of air should be used to attain an efficient combustion. If more oxygen gets through, peak pressure inside the cylinder increases and by default, chances of knock increase. When a cylinder knocks, it can basically create a rotational force that opposes the one generated by the crankshaft, generating severe consequences.



  1. To little oxygen

We’ve found out that too much oxygen is definitely not as good as it may have been initially presumed. However, the other extreme isn’t promising. A low oxygen level within the mixture (an AFR below 14.7:1) won’t allow the entire amount of fuel to be burnt, and thus generate an efficient combustion process. This is called a rich mixture. The immediate result is a considerable increase in fuel consumption; those injectors are pumping more fuel than the available oxygen is able to aid burning.

An oxygen sensor constantly monitors the amount of oxygen output traveling through the exhaust manifold, then sends the acquired data to an Electronic Control Unit (basically a computer for the vehicle) which then adjust the amount of fuel being pushed through injectors into the combustion chamber. Since it’s purely electrical, an oxygen sensor varies its electrical input in order to feed data to the ECU: 0.9V for rich and 0.1V for lean mixtures.

What is it made of?

The probe itself features a ceramic cylinder with platinum electrodes plating both on the inside and on the outside. On top, a metal gauze protects the whole system, like a capsule. It is important to know that oxygen sensors only work effectively while heated at about 600 F (or 316 C). That is the reason why modern sensors also feature heating elements added to the ceramic cylinder, speeding up the heating process. Unlike them, older sensors based solely on the exhaust gas heat to warm up.

Oxygen sensor failures

The best indicative for the wellbeing of an oxygen sensor is the way your vehicle performs. A lower overall performance may be caused by a faulty oxygen sensor, but it isn’t always the case. First of all, it is perfectly normal for a vehicle to exhibit lower performance when cold started. It takes a while for the lambda probe to heat up; until then, since it gets no input from the sensor, the Electronic Control Unit of the vehicle will supply a preset amount of fuel, usually a little above the normal Air to Fuel Ratio.

Electronic Control Units also consider input data from engine coolant sensors when “deciding” how much fuel to inject into combustion chambers; this is why a faulty coolant sensor indicating a higher temperature will cause the ECU to push less fuel through injectors.

If your vehicle traveled more than 100,000 miles, then find out that this equals to the average lifespan of a heated lambda probe. Although you may not feel any serious downshifts in performance, it may actually be a good idea to replace your car’s oxygen sensor with a new one, maybe even opt for a premium product.


Premium Oxygen Sensors

Is there an actual reason you should switch to premium sensors or it’s just a new marketing stunt? The truth is, yes, your car can benefit from having a premium oxygen sensor installed. Considering the fact that premium quality sensors are built with higher grade technology and come with various prerequisites such as coated threads with anti-seize compound, fuel efficiency and power output of your vehicle may shift from good to better.

Although premium sensors are mostly after-market products, they are built by the same brands employed by major automakers to develop OEM parts. It is, however, important to check full compatibility with your vehicle before acquiring a new oxygen sensor.



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