Autolite 1100 Carburetor

Autolite 1100 carburetor parts.All technical information including videos assume parts used are our brand. Parts from other sources may not install, or function the same way.
About the Autolite 1100 Carburetor

  • The Autolite 1100 one-barrel carburetor was included on 170″ & 200″, 1963-69.
  • 1963-1967 (some) came with a spark control valve.
  • 1968 – The venturi size was changed to 1.10 and there was no control valve.
    The distributor was changed to use a mechanical advance
    instead of using the venturi vacuum previously.
  • 1967-1969
    – Two diaphragms were used. The added
    diaphragm is used as an anti stall dashpot. Only one diaphragm was used prior to 1967
  • Correct venturi size for Mustangs was 1.10″, or 1.20″
  • When no tag is present, Identification can be done by inspecting the base. You can sometimes find a Ford part number there.

Buy your Autolite 1100 carburetor kit here.

Free Autolite 1100 manuals

1968-69 Autolite 1100

Power Valve

At higher speeds, the engine vacuum drops which causes the power valve to open and allow more fuel to flow.
Autolite 1100 Choke

Do not remove the power valve assembly when rebuilding, but it does need to be free to easily move up and down. For sticky power valves spray liberally with silicon spray lubricant and work it up and down until it is free. Worst case is you will have to remove the clean out plug on the top of the carburetor so that you can get at the cylinder for cleaning. You will need a new clean out plug, or patch up the old plug with JB weld (don’t get any inside). A surge at high speeds (steady throttle) might indicate a power valve
problem. Change the power valve timing to open sooner (at less throttle opening) by adding additional calibrating shims, on power valve rod (see illustration above). If less than 4 shims found on rod, add 4 shims; if more than 4 shims found on rod, add fewer number. Total number of shims on rod must not exceed 8. These shims are not produced and you only want to take the power valve apart as a last resort.

Autolite 1100 Main Jet

This is where the Autolite 1100 main jet resides. Due to the difference in gasoline, the jet size that was originally installed on the 1100 isn’t that relevant anymore. Be sure you are using the correct jet size, otherwise you chance ruining your engine. Test your main jet
by running your vehicle for 20 minutes at a sustained speed. Pull a spark plug and look at the color. Gray is perfect. White means you are too lean and need to move up one size.
Black is too much fuel and you need to move down one size. Do this one size at a time until you get a good gray colored plug. This test is only valid when your engine and electrical system are good condition.
Autolite 1100 Jet

1966 Rough Idle & Poor Fuel Economy Correction.

This condition may be caused by the fuel bowl vent valve being out of adjustment. Check and adjust the vent valve each time the carburetor idle speed adjustment is made. 

Buy your Autolite 1100 Main Jets.

Did you lose your check weight?

Autolite 1100

These are no longer available, but you can make your own. Use a 3/16″ aluminum rod, cut 9/16″ long. File the end a bit as pictured. Weight will end up being about 1 gram.

Watcha video about On The Bench Adjustments

Watch a video about rebuilding the Autolite 1100 carburetor. Part 1 – Teardown

Question
I seem to have a problem with my carb that I rebuilt recently. It is a C8PF-D on my 1963,170 cu in Falcon with auto trans. Its a manual choke and has the spark control system and a diaphram on each side. We adjusted the mixture screw till it ran nice and took it for a small drive. Upon returning it would not idle hardly and was running very rough. We adjusted the mixture screw again and it started runnning properly agian. The next drive we took it ran great, but when we arrived home the same rough running and no idle was present agian. It acually died on us instead of idling. My question is if the mixture
screw is backing itself off due to vibrations etc.? Could the screw or spring be worn out or could it be the carb hole and threads worn out? I hope you have run across this before and can point me in the right direction. I thought about loctite to hold it, or maybe a new
spring and screw.

Answer
1st off don’t use anything on the threads. That would probably ruin the carburetor. It does seem the screws are moving from vibration. I would replace the idle mixture screw and spring.

Watch a video about the Autolite 1100 Flooding Troubleshooting

 


I am having an issue with my autolite 1100 stumbling when under way. Everything is fine at rest. I notice if I sit on the fender and rock the car the engine begins to stumble. When I set the float level I used the Fuel system service instruction worksheet provided in your rebuild kit and it stated to set the float level to 1 – 3/32 for my 65 Mustang 200 A/T, which I did. Do you think its possible I would need to set the float level higher or do I possibly have something else going on? Fuel pump filter and strainer are all 2 months old. As is the carb rebuild.

The 1st thing that comes to mind is that the flow bowl is warped. Check my video about fixing the 1904 with heat. Same idea.

Recent Posts

Carter Thermoquad

Throughout the 1970s and early 80s, the Carter Thermoquad (TQ) was a popular carburetor found on many Chrysler products as standard equipment, and on some Ford Motor Company vehicles, as well. The earliest version was in the Competition Series first released in 1969. Production versions followed in 1971 on Chrysler’s 340 c.i. engine. The TQ was discontinued briefly in the mid 70s, then reintroduced as the 9000 series for its final production years.

The Thermoquad was a large four barrel configuraton, with what was called the spreadbore design, two smaller primaries for fuel economy and two large secondaries. When those secondaries kicked in, you knew it. It came standard on many Chrysler engines including the big 440 c.i. mill, most 360s and even on many 318s. International Harvester used the TQ sporadically on its 345 and 392 engines. The big Lincoln 460 c.i. engine occasionally sported the TQ.

A quite distinctive touch on this carburetor was the material of which the main body was constructed. Between the lower throttle flange below and the aluminum bowl cover above, this black phenolic plastic section was designed to provide a cooler operating environment for the gasoline in the float bowl. It worked to effectively lower the operating temperature by about 20 degrees. And this plastic resin main body, then, is what gave the thermoquad its name.

The TQ was a dual bowl carburetor with the bowls housed in the phenolic plastic body. Each bowl served half of the carburetor: one primary and its related secondary. The first thermoquads employed brass floats while the later versions after 1973 were all nitrophyl floats.

The spreadbore design feature was shared in common with other carburetors, even those from other manufacturers, including popular Rochester and Holley designs that shared a common flange connection with the Thermoquad. Therefore many of these carburetors can be swapped out with the right adapter.

The original factory Competition Series of the TQ came in two flow ratings, 850 and 1,000 cfm. Production versions ranged from 750 to 850 cfm. This carburetor was also produced in aftermarket versions rated up to 1000 cfm.

Produced over such a long lifespan, the TQ came in literally dozens of versions, and many parts are not interchangeable from one version to the next. Correct identification of which version your engine carries is therefore critical. There are many different numbers found on the carburetor, but most of them are casting numbers. The actual model number is stamped into the lower left bolt flange at the rear of the carburetor. Some early versions also had a tag displaying the model number attached to one of the mounting bolts. Some later versions also included a bar code sticker identifying the version. Some rebuild kits and all nitrophyl floats remain available.

Buy Thermoquad Carbuetor Kits

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