Autolite 1100 Carburetor

Autolite 1100 carburetor parts.All technical information including videos assume parts used are our brand. Parts from other sources may not install, or function the same way.
About the Autolite 1100 Carburetor

The Autolite 1100 one-barrel carburetor was included on 170″ & 200″, 1963-69.
1963-1967 (some) came with a spark control valve.
1968 – The venturi size was changed to 1.10 and there was no control valve.
The distributor was changed to use a mechanical advance instead of using the venturi vacuum previously.
1967-1969
- Two diaphragms were used. The added diaphragm is used as an anti stall dashpot. Only one diaphragm was used prior to 1967

Correct venturi size for Mustangs was 1.10″, or 1.20″
When no tag is present, Identification can be done by inspecting the base. You can sometimes find a Ford part number there.

Buy your Autolite 1100 carburetor kit here.

Free Autolite 1100 manuals
1968-69 Autolite 1100

Power Valve

At higher speeds, the engine vacuum drops which causes the power valve to open and allow more fuel to flow.
Autolite 1100 Choke

Do not remove the power valve assembly when rebuilding, but it does need to be free to easily move up and down. For sticky power valves spray liberally with silicon spray lubricant and work it up and down until it is free. Worst case is you will have to remove the clean out plug on the top of the carburetor so that you can get at the cylinder for cleaning. You will need a new clean out plug, or patch up the old plug with JB weld (don’t get any inside). A surge at high speeds (steady throttle) might indicate a power valve
problem. Change the power valve timing to open sooner (at less throttle opening) by adding additional calibrating shims, on power valve rod (see illustration above). If less than 4 shims found on rod, add 4 shims; if more than 4 shims found on rod, add fewer number. Total number of shims on rod must not exceed 8. These shims are not produced and you only want to take the power valve apart as a last resort.

Autolite 1100 Main Jet

This is where the Autolite 1100 main jet resides. Due to the difference in gasoline, the jet size that was originally installed on the 1100 isn’t that relevant anymore. Be sure you are using the correct jet size, otherwise you chance ruining your engine. Test your main jet
by running your vehicle for 20 minutes at a sustained speed. Pull a spark plug and look at the color. Gray is perfect. White means you are too lean and need to move up one size.
Black is too much fuel and you need to move down one size. Do this one size at a time until you get a good gray colored plug. This test is only valid when your engine and electrical system are good condition.
Autolite 1100 Jet

1966 Rough Idle & Poor Fuel Economy Correction.

This condition may be caused by the fuel bowl vent valve being out of adjustment. Check and adjust the vent valve each time the carburetor idle speed adjustment is made.

Buy your Autolite 1100 Main Jets.

Did you lose your check weight?

Autolite 1100

These are no longer available, but you can make your own. Use a 3/16″ aluminum rod, cut 9/16″ long. File the end a bit as pictured. Weight will end up being about 1 gram.

Watcha video about On The Bench Adjustments

Watch a video about rebuilding the Autolite 1100 carburetor. Part 1 – Teardown

Question
I seem to have a problem with my carb that I rebuilt recently. It is a C8PF-D on my 1963,170 cu in Falcon with auto trans. Its a manual choke and has the spark control system and a diaphram on each side. We adjusted the mixture screw till it ran nice and took it for a small drive. Upon returning it would not idle hardly and was running very rough. We adjusted the mixture screw again and it started runnning properly agian. The next drive we took it ran great, but when we arrived home the same rough running and no idle was present agian. It acually died on us instead of idling. My question is if the mixture
screw is backing itself off due to vibrations etc.? Could the screw or spring be worn out or could it be the carb hole and threads worn out? I hope you have run across this before and can point me in the right direction. I thought about loctite to hold it, or maybe a new
spring and screw.

Answer
1st off don’t use anything on the threads. That would probably ruin the carburetor. It does seem the screws are moving from vibration. I would replace the idle mixture screw and spring.

Watch a video about the Autolite 1100 Flooding Troubleshooting

I am having an issue with my autolite 1100 stumbling when under way. Everything is fine at rest. I notice if I sit on the fender and rock the car the engine begins to stumble. When I set the float level I used the Fuel system service instruction worksheet provided in your rebuild kit and it stated to set the float level to 1 – 3/32 for my 65 Mustang 200 A/T, which I did. Do you think its possible I would need to set the float level higher or do I possibly have something else going on? Fuel pump filter and strainer are all 2 months old. As is the carb rebuild.

The 1st thing that comes to mind is that the flow bowl is warped. Check my video about fixing the 1904 with heat. Same idea.

Here is a question I received from a customer recently.

I rebuilt my 1904 using kit #k4043, got new mixture screw and pump link. not having much carb experience I think I have some problems. I’ll list what I think is wrong.
Will idle only if choke partially closed, did it before rebuild too
Fuel dumping out of main metering port onto choke plate while idling
Inline glass filter always full, used to be half full
Vacumm hole in base of throttle body blocked, but intersects with hole in the bore
Idle mixture screw is ineffective whether screwed in or out
There is no dashpot lever spring
Carb doesn’t mount directly on the manifold, but on what appears to be a stack of gaskets, but everything lines up linkage-wise.
I did the fix for the warped body and now it’s flat.
In your video you mention the plastic ball in the main body sometimes not being there and not making a difference, I put mine in.
The only thing I didn’t replace were the balls for the main metering body because the balls and weight were moving very freely.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Joe

The fact that the engine will only idle with the choke partially closed means that there is too much air due to a vacuum leak somewhere, or that it isn’t getting enough fuel. Since the problem was there before the rebuild, I would start by looking for a vacuum leak.

Spray carburetor cleaner around connections and if the idle smooths out, or the RPM changes, then you have located the leak. I would start with the non standard stack of gaskets. After that check all other connections such as the intake manifold. If the carburetor will mount with the standard 1 gasket, then I would take the other gaskets off.

Fuel dumping means that you are getting too much fuel in the float bowl. Did you seal around the inlet bolt with the Permatex anaerobic. If not, check out my instructions on how to do that. Did you recently replace the fuel pump? A new fuel pump might have too much pressure. Test the fuel pump pressure and compare to the specification in your motor manual. I’m guessing somewhere around 5 – 6 lbs.

The hole in the base of the throttle body leads up to the vacuum port at the top of the carburetor. This is used for the distributor advance and needs to be open all the way to the intake vacuum. Having this covered up will cause problems. If you have to, make a hole in the gasket.

The missing spring from the dashpot is not the problem. The dashpot is used on automatic transmission type of cars and it holds the throttle open for a second or so when you let up on the gas, allowing for any left over gas mixture to be burned.

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