Autolite 1100 Carburetor

Autolite 1100 carburetor parts.All technical information including videos assume parts used are our brand. Parts from other sources may not install, or function the same way.
About the Autolite 1100 Carburetor

  • The Autolite 1100 one-barrel carburetor was included on 170″ & 200″, 1963-69.
  • 1963-1967 (some) came with a spark control valve.
  • 1968 – The venturi size was changed to 1.10 and there was no control valve.
    The distributor was changed to use a mechanical advance
    instead of using the venturi vacuum previously.
  • 1967-1969
    – Two diaphragms were used. The added
    diaphragm is used as an anti stall dashpot. Only one diaphragm was used prior to 1967
  • Correct venturi size for Mustangs was 1.10″, or 1.20″
  • When no tag is present, Identification can be done by inspecting the base. You can sometimes find a Ford part number there.

Buy your Autolite 1100 carburetor kit here.

Free Autolite 1100 manuals

1968-69 Autolite 1100

Power Valve

At higher speeds, the engine vacuum drops which causes the power valve to open and allow more fuel to flow.
Autolite 1100 Choke

Do not remove the power valve assembly when rebuilding, but it does need to be free to easily move up and down. For sticky power valves spray liberally with silicon spray lubricant and work it up and down until it is free. Worst case is you will have to remove the clean out plug on the top of the carburetor so that you can get at the cylinder for cleaning. You will need a new clean out plug, or patch up the old plug with JB weld (don’t get any inside). A surge at high speeds (steady throttle) might indicate a power valve
problem. Change the power valve timing to open sooner (at less throttle opening) by adding additional calibrating shims, on power valve rod (see illustration above). If less than 4 shims found on rod, add 4 shims; if more than 4 shims found on rod, add fewer number. Total number of shims on rod must not exceed 8. These shims are not produced and you only want to take the power valve apart as a last resort.

Autolite 1100 Main Jet

This is where the Autolite 1100 main jet resides. Due to the difference in gasoline, the jet size that was originally installed on the 1100 isn’t that relevant anymore. Be sure you are using the correct jet size, otherwise you chance ruining your engine. Test your main jet
by running your vehicle for 20 minutes at a sustained speed. Pull a spark plug and look at the color. Gray is perfect. White means you are too lean and need to move up one size.
Black is too much fuel and you need to move down one size. Do this one size at a time until you get a good gray colored plug. This test is only valid when your engine and electrical system are good condition.
Autolite 1100 Jet

1966 Rough Idle & Poor Fuel Economy Correction.

This condition may be caused by the fuel bowl vent valve being out of adjustment. Check and adjust the vent valve each time the carburetor idle speed adjustment is made. 

Buy your Autolite 1100 Main Jets.

Did you lose your check weight?

Autolite 1100

These are no longer available, but you can make your own. Use a 3/16″ aluminum rod, cut 9/16″ long. File the end a bit as pictured. Weight will end up being about 1 gram.

Watcha video about On The Bench Adjustments

Watch a video about rebuilding the Autolite 1100 carburetor. Part 1 – Teardown

Question
I seem to have a problem with my carb that I rebuilt recently. It is a C8PF-D on my 1963,170 cu in Falcon with auto trans. Its a manual choke and has the spark control system and a diaphram on each side. We adjusted the mixture screw till it ran nice and took it for a small drive. Upon returning it would not idle hardly and was running very rough. We adjusted the mixture screw again and it started runnning properly agian. The next drive we took it ran great, but when we arrived home the same rough running and no idle was present agian. It acually died on us instead of idling. My question is if the mixture
screw is backing itself off due to vibrations etc.? Could the screw or spring be worn out or could it be the carb hole and threads worn out? I hope you have run across this before and can point me in the right direction. I thought about loctite to hold it, or maybe a new
spring and screw.

Answer
1st off don’t use anything on the threads. That would probably ruin the carburetor. It does seem the screws are moving from vibration. I would replace the idle mixture screw and spring.

Watch a video about the Autolite 1100 Flooding Troubleshooting

 


I am having an issue with my autolite 1100 stumbling when under way. Everything is fine at rest. I notice if I sit on the fender and rock the car the engine begins to stumble. When I set the float level I used the Fuel system service instruction worksheet provided in your rebuild kit and it stated to set the float level to 1 – 3/32 for my 65 Mustang 200 A/T, which I did. Do you think its possible I would need to set the float level higher or do I possibly have something else going on? Fuel pump filter and strainer are all 2 months old. As is the carb rebuild.

The 1st thing that comes to mind is that the flow bowl is warped. Check my video about fixing the 1904 with heat. Same idea.

Recent Posts

VW Fuel Injection

By the mid 1960s, mechanical fuel injection had been successfully employed in Formula One and sports car endurance racing for more than a decade. But manufacturers were just beginning to install it on production cars. Volkswagen introduced it first in 1967 on what the company referred to as the Type 3: the notchback, squareback, and fastback models. It was a Bosch system called D-Jetronic. Volkswagen would not introduce fuel injection to the rest of its line-up until 1975, when they switched to the Bosch L-Jetronic system for their Beetle, Super Beetle, and Type 2, better known as the Bus.

Bosch had developed a direct injection system for gasoline engines as early as 1952, for the Goliath GP 700, a misnomer if there ever was one. The Goliath was a tiny car only 160 inches long, and production numbers were low. The VW Type 3 was the first production model built in sizable numbers to sport mechanical fuel injection on gasoline engines.

These were simple systems, but all systems break down over time. And forty years is a pretty long time. Today, parts are increasingly difficult to find, especially for the earliest D-Jetronic system. Even finding mechanics experienced with these early systems can be a challenge. Some owners prefer to go the DIY route. And some convert their engines to carburetion instead. There are useful manuals out there for the DIY-ers. One that is a little pricey but very helpful is Bosch Fuel Injection and Engine Management, by Charles O. Probst.




Several aftermarket companies make replacement “bolt on” fuel injection systems, but installation is typically far more complicated than merely bolting them on. They may require some drilling, fuel line modification, and perhaps welding of the O2 sensor. You have to be a pretty ambitious DIYer to tackle this job. And the initial cost of these systems can also be prohibitive. Some of these do come in kits, however, which help to simplify the process. For the truly ambitious DIYer, you can always build a system from scratch. But that will involve not only the new fuel line, but also the pressure regulator, electric pump, throttle body and its sensor, a computer, and of course, the injectors. And anyone ambitious enough to consider going this route has probably already replaced the Bosch system.

There are many paths you can take to put your VW back on the road, some far more elaborate than others. A lot of it is simply deciding what is best for you, your car, and your pocket book.

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