Carter AFB Exploded Diagram

Carter AFB Exploded Diagram – 9000

AFB Exploded


1. Cover plate screw
2. Cover plate
3. Step-up rod
4. Step-up retainer spring
5. Step-up piston
6. Vacuum piston spring
7. Pin spring
8. Pump connector rod.
9. Fast idle cam connector rod
10. Countershaft lever
11. Choke connector rod
12. Pump lever screw
13. Pump lever
14. Pump S link
15. Fuel inlet fitting
16. Fuel inlet fitting gasket
17. 3/16″ Fresh air choke hose
18. Bowl cover screw
19. Bowl cover screw
20. Bowl cover
21. Float pin
22. Float
23. Needle & seat assembly
24. Bowl cover gasket
25. Plunger assembly
26. Lower plunger spring
27. Vent valve
28. Float bowl baffle
29. Secondary venturi assy. screw
30. Secondary venturi assembly
31. Secondary venturi assy. gasket
32. Auxillary valves and shaft
33. Primary venturi assembly screw
34. Primary venturi assembly
35. Primary venturi assembly gasket
36. Pump jet housing screw
37. Pump jet housing
38. Pump jet gasket
39. Pump discharge check needle, or ball & weight
40. Primary metering jet
41. Secondary metering jet
42. Idle mixture screw
43. Idle mixture screw spring
44. Coil housing retainer screw
45. Coil housing retainer
46. Choke ground wire
47. Coil housing
48. Coil housing gasket
49. Baffle plate
50. Piston housing attaching screw
51. Piston housing
52. Piston housing gasket
53. Throttle body casting
54. Base gasket
Carter AFB 9000 Carburetor KitCarter AFB Carburetor Kit

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Floats

Floats perform an important function in maintaining the correct level of fuel in the float bowl by opening and closing an internal inlet valve. If the float develops a leak, it will sink below its ideal level and excess fuel will enter the bowl. This causes the engine to run rich and probably causes leakage of gasoline out of the carburetor, increasing the risk of engine fires. In a carburetor rebuild be certain to examine the old float for damage or corrosion. You can also test your float for leakage to determine if it needs to be replaced. Repairing old floats is difficult, especially in light of the need to avoid increasing the weight of the float with the addition of solder. Adding weight changes the floatation characteristics of the float.

We have one of the Internet’s widest selections of floats including all floats that remain available and many that are extremely hard to find. We have floats for all of the major name brands of carburetors. These floats are made in the U.S.A. and designed and built to the highest quality standards, including both brass and nitrophyl floats. In some applications, both are available to choose between. We do recommend changing all old nitrophyl floats at the time of a carburetor rebuild, and many mechanics change all floats during rebuilds.

From Holley, Carter, and Motorcraft to Stromberg and Zenith floats, we have them all, including a wide selection of Rochester and Marvel Schebler floats. If it is time for a float replacement in your classic car, scroll our selection and find your carburetor float at a price that will make you smile.

Float Problems and Their Diagnosis:

With brass floats, the floating “pontoon” is typically constructed of at least two brass sections soldered together along a seam. Then a tiny hole used to equalize internal and external temperatures is soldered shut to complete the assembly process. Since all of these points are submerged in gasoline during engine operation, leakage problems can later occur at any place that was soldered. Repairing these floats is quite challenging and replacement is usually preferred unless the float is no longer available.

If your engine is the least bit hard starting after it has warmed up, or if your exhaust has a rich gasoline odor, you probably have carburetor problems, and a bad float is one of the possibilities. Other symptoms include poor gas mileage and, of course, if the engine is flooding.

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