Ford, Autolite & Motorcraft Carburetors

Autolite 1100

Autolite 4100

Autolite 4300

Autolite 4350

Motorcraft 2100

Motorcraft 2150

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Autolite 4100 Rebuild Video DVD. Complete instructional video on how to rebuild your Autolite 4100.

Free Autolite 4100 Carburetor Manual

Free Autolite Ford Carburetor Service Manual – Includes Holley 1940, Autolite 1100, Carter YF, Carter RBS, Motorcraft 2100, Autolite 4300, Holley 4150

Free Holley 94 Carburetor Manual – In the Ford world, this is the Ford AA-1.

32 thoughts on “Ford, Autolite & Motorcraft Carburetors

  1. Autolite 2V, C6DF B for a 66,Mustang, 289, Auto Trans. There were some “Design” changes. I believe I am supposed to have “B” and have found a “C” seems strange since the C has a date code 2 weeks prior to my B. Do you know what the difference between the two carbs “Design” is?

  2. Hi, I am restoring a Austin Gipsy series 1 with a Zenith 34WIAZ carby. I there a tuning manual available for this model. The Gipsy manual is not very clear how to set this thing up. Thanks. Henri

  3. Mike.. a followup

    Thanks for the great tip, I noticed the hole was stepped so I thought I would try something and dropped the correct small ball that came in the kit into the hole… then dropped a steel BB into the stepped portion as it fit perfectly… then reassembled it
    Viola.. started and ran like a champ. I dont think I would have ever spotted it missing based upon the diagram and my brain not seeing it fall out.
    Without your direction I would have been into an unnecessary carb swap
    Now this carb is old hat to me and I can rebuild it literally in a couple of minutes. I have it on several of my 300 ci ford trucks as well.

    Kudos to you my friend.. thanks

  4. Mike… Thank you for the generous plethora of information you have freely given all of us. Using your videos I rebuilt my Motorcraft D7JL-9510 1 barrel carb. (Holley 1940) (Its on a ford 300 1980 Liftall forklift industrial)
    I dont believe I had the pump discharge weight (#61 in the 1940 diagram) or check ball… but… it is possible it got away from me.. I see the hole.
    The rebuild kit does have a new check ball in it but no weight. In your video you describe that you had published somewhere how to make one as these are apparently unavailable

    Could you tell me how I could make one.. or a source for it..

    After rebuilding the carb the forklift will not run (it will if I pour gas into the carb) All other systems are excellent and checkout so it is my rebuilding of the carb that is my issue. Im wondering if the lack of check ball and weight is the source of my issue

    Thank you for the great site and expertise
    Respectfully

    Cam

  5. I have a carburetor from a 1965 Ford Mustang. The tag has C40F AA. I would like to order a gasket set, also I need a float

  6. Mike,

    I’ve got a 68 Ford Galaxie with a 302 auto and a rebuilt Motorcraft 2100 carb with an electric choke and 1.14 venturi. I’ve got two questions for you. First, the number stamped at the base of the carb is “6D B.” The internet searches I’ve done indicate this is for a 289 manual transmission. Should this carb even be on my 302? Second, the electric choke is not connected. I’ve seen quite a bit of opinion on the internet about how to connect it but it appears that most old Ford guys say connect it to the stator terminal on the alternator. That would sure be easy but is it the best option? Apparently the older Ford electric chokes were 6 volts and the electric chokes that come with a rebuild are 12 volts although some guys say it doesn’t matter–only amperage matters. Could sure use some help on these questions!

    • All electric chokes that we sell is 12V and should be connected to the alternator. You need a constant 12V only when the engine is on. I don’t think 6D B is enough to determine the application, but 1.14 is used on bigger block engines. 351, 390

      • Thanks for the response. What problems will I have with this carb if the venturi size is wrong? What size should I have?

        I’ll hook the choke to the alternator but the stator terminal only puts out about 7 volts or so from what I’ve been able to determine. Should I connect it to another terminal on the alternator?

        Mark

        • In general the venturi size can be moved around without too much trouble. Would be best to stay with the stock size.
          You have to have 12v voltage with the key on.

          • What size venturi should I have for a 302 and do you stock them? Can they be swapped out of my current carb or should I just buy a new carb?

            What terminal on the alternator supplies 12V keyed?

  7. I have a 67 mustang with a 302 V8 engine with an autolite 4100 carb on it. I’ve adjusted the idle mixture screws by going from base of 1-1/2 turns out to screwing in until engine runs rough then backing out until it runs smooth again and left them at this setting. Seems to run fine but the exhaust gases will choke you idleing. This is a new build, and has a very mild cam installed. Any thoughts on where to go from here?

  8. I have a Motorcraft 2150 on a stock Ford 2.8L 171cid V6 sourced from a 1979 Mercury Capri. The ID tag is missing, but I would like to purchase a rebuild kit. Can you help?

    Thanks
    Ryan

  9. I have an 86 f600 Ford truck. Carb was changed before I bought it and a Motorcraft 2150 was used. The bowl vent was plugged on top and in the front with plugs hammered in by the Rebuild company. It has a choke pull off. I think the power valve was blown out during a backfire, and now it floods and won’t idle and backfires and smokes and send flames out the exhaust when it backfires. when it has been sitting for a while it starts easily, and then loads up and you have to keep it up at 2500 or higher rpm or it just stalls and backfires. I have the Rebuild company sticker tab which has 2 lines of numbers which I think are propriatary. 23910010 and 02072089. it is a white sticker that has a blue line around the outside that looks like a capital letter D with an arrow going up the front part of the D, I can send pictures if you need them. I didn’t find much stamped on the body. It has a number 1.21 on the side with starburst lines radially outwards around it. I assume this is the barrel size? from what I have seen on utube. It has the rounded upper body of the 2150 series. It has a heat tube choke, that was blocked off and replaced with a manual choke kit. the choke heat tube was properly blocked off with a screw and gasket. The power valve is the open kind without little holes in the cover, and it has a gasket. The end of it sticks up into the float bowl with a flat top. Can You help with a kit for this? I also want the brass float replacement because I think the plastic float has degraded, and contributed to the flooding and backfire problem.

  10. Thank You for the various diagrams.I have a 1965 mastang 6 cyl with a 250 head using a carter one barrel with a electric choke and automatic trans.the only ID is a # 72108 at the base. Im trying to identify where all the vacuum lines go. Vac advance, trans line etc etc.
    hope you can help
    thanx mustang corky

  11. I have a1970 lincoln 460 with the 4300 carb and my problem is I have to turn the idle mixture screws almost all the way out to get the engine to idle. They are so far out there is no tension on the springs. This carb does not have the large idle screw that goes in the back of the carb. I do not know if it never had one or it is just missing. My plan is to rebuild it but I would like to know what is causing this before I do. Thanks, Jon

    • This is indicative of a carburetor that is dirty. It is a good indication that it needs rebuilding. That is assuming nothing else has been done recently to possibly cause a vacuum leak somewhere.

  12. I have a 1987 ford f250 460 with a 4180 carb
    the fuel bowl threads are striped out want to just replace this part of the carb

    can you help?
    Thank You,
    Bob Rivers

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