Holley 1904 Carburetor

The Holley 1904 is a 1 barrel, downdraft carburetor and has three basic parts, the main body, throttle body and the float bowl. The main body includes the metering block, float and the economizer. The float bowl mounts on the front of the carburetor and can be metal, or glass. The glass bowl is becoming a rare piece to find, undoubtedly because they are so easy to break and they are not made any more.

Having the float bowl on the front allowed the 1904 carburetor to be designed with a low profile, which accommodated a smaller space between the engine and the hood. While we are fortunate to have carburetor kit coverage for all of the 1904 carburetor numbers, there are few other parts still available. We now produce both the brass float and plastic actuator.

36 thoughts on “Holley 1904 Carburetor

  1. Hello – I have (2) 1904 Holley carbs, both with warped bodies. As you suggest to heat the body up and put it in a vice to straighten it out, if I sent you the carb can you provide this service and rebuild. I have been thru 8 rebuilt carbs and all have had this same problem, leak around the float bowl. Thank you, Mike

  2. I rebuilt Holley 1904 with Carburetor Repair Kit Premium. After I installed on car (1930 Model A with Miller OHV), I turned on fuel pump to check for leaks and the main nozzle was dripping fuel into the venturi. Even after turning the pump off, fuel continues to drip from nozzle. Could this be the float settting? Fuel too high in the bowl dripping out nozzle? There is no fuel is dripping out the balance tube, so I believe the float needle is closing as expected, but from other techincal answers on this site, I should recheck for leaks around float valve, too. Thank you. David

      • Yes, thank you, resolved! (I tried to reply earlier this week, but link to Holley 1904 did not work me). I found your note about sealing the fuel inlet seat screw and gasket. Fuel was leaking ahead of the inlet valve, overfilling bowl and then dripping out main nozzle. Took carb off, opened bowl, inverted to close float and put air pressure through inlet. With a drop of oil on seat gasket, air bubbles were easy to see originating from gasket. Added the recommended Permatex anaerobic sealant to gaskets and red locktite to threads. Passed the air test. Back on the car, no drip even with fuel pump on. On the computer screen, zooming in on figures in the original manual really helped me understand carb passages. Next, I think I need to get linkage to close throttle plate tight; engine starts great and then roars way over idle, even with idle screw closed.

  3. Mike I have a 1904 list 2352 on an 1961 IHC Scout 80. I bought the repair kit and when I went to relace the check balls in the metering block mine has plugs not screw caps as in your video. Do I have the wrong metering block and does it matter. I saw on your site that the used Metering block you have for sale is described as a 2454 and is non-threaded. Is that what mine is? Do you have the correct ones? I also noticed that my float has “wings” for lack of a better description, on each side. A large one on the inside and a smaller one facing the cover. is this the wrong float? Should I remove the wings?

    • Metering blocks can have plugs instead of screws. That is why we include new plugs in our 1904 hardware kit. The plug type have to be drilled out, cleaned well and then re-plugged. Assuming you didn’t use a bit too large, the new plugs will fig snugly. Optionally apply a very small amt of JB weld around the plug.

      The winged type of float is perfect. I suspect they designed them that way to help take the bounce out of the float.

  4. When I left off on my Model A with Holley 1904, the rebuild had went well, and I was adjusting the idle mixture screw. I was finding that when fully seated and backed out 2 turns, there were very few threads, maybe three, engaged in the body of the carb. The screw, even with spring, was a sloppy fit that seemed like it would vibrate loose and fall out. I wrapped a tiny bit of teflon tape on the screw threads and the fit was more secure, but not right. My time was up, and I had to put car into winter storage. Looking at the old needle that I was replacing, despite it’s very worn condition, I think that it had a much shorter taper and tip, which allowed more threads to engage in the body before the tip hit the seat. I am thinking buying another one (or two) mixture screws and turning a shorter taper. Would this seem reasonable? Are the mixture screws available separately or only in the screw kit? Thank you.

    • 1st of all I doubt your problem is with the screw unless it is simply the wrong screw. When you have to turn a mixture screw more than normal, it is indicative of a dirty carburetor needing rebuild, or perhaps a vacuum leak.

      Idle mixture screws for the 1904 are only available in our hardware kit.

      Thanks
      Mike

  5. I have a holley 1904 on a 1955 IH R100 that i’m restoring. Carb was rebuilt. It idles just fine, no leaks, the issue i’m having is when i give it a throttle input the truck dies. If i give it a shot of starter fluid as it wants to die the truck revs up and then i can continue to rev up as long as i don’t let it come back to idle. I’m assuming that this is indicating a fuel delivery problem. Can you help steer me in the right direction. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks in advance.

    • There is a whole array of things it could be. Obviously it isn’t getting enough gas. Float level, clogged passage ways, wrong accelerator diaphragm (happens a lot when buying the wrong kit), plugged, or damaged main discharge, leaking past the metering block, low fuel pump pressure.

      Most likely when doing this on acceleration only, you can home in on the diaphragm, or main discharge area.

  6. I have a problem with a holley 1904 carb.The truck will only run with the choke fully closed.Geting past idle is impossible, very hard to start.have to dump a large amount of fuel in just to get it going. Thankyou.

  7. I have a Holley 1908 (close cousin to the 1904). I have rebuilt it, properly I hope but the one problem that persists is that the Rambler dies when I slow and make a right turn. It only happens on right turns. I have adjusted the float level up and down by about a 1/16th of an inch and I have made adjustments to the idle mixture and idles speed. Nothing seems to work. The economizer valve seemed to work normally (the little plunger was free) when I rebuild the carb. I’d like any advice you can offer. Thanks.

    • My guess is casting warpage, probably in the metering block. It would seem that fuel sloshing to the left side of the bowl is somehow getting together withe manifold vacuum which is what often causes this sort of problem — think Carter WCFB in left-hand turns when the fuel sloshes to the right side of the bowl and gets together with manifold vacuum to the choke P/O.

      It could be accelerator pump related; ask the customer if it stalls in those right-hand turns only if he tries to accelerate.

      Here is something I found that might help:
      http://www.carburetor-blog.com/manuals/holley_1908_manual.pdf

  8. I have a 1904 on my 1960 F100 223 cid. I did a complete rebuild on the engine and carb. The pickup ran great for three months, then one morning I went to start it and it would not run Hardly at all. I checked my fuel cell it is ok, I checked fuel filter a little dirty so I changed it “fuel is filtered wright where it comes out of the tank”. Checked all fuel lines ok. I even ran an alternate fuel cell nothing worked I pulled down the carb put in a new Napa carb kit, ECHLIN #2-5195 still the same thing. Altering watching your video I noticed I do not have #44 screw-pump discharge. Nozzle, #45 nozzle-pump discharge & #46 gasket- pump discharge. Nozzle those are the numbers from ECHLIN instruction sheet. That part is right above the choke plate on the inside of the mouth of the carb. Would this make the engine run like that? The numbers I gave you are from there instruction page the number on it is GF10371 from that carb kit..any help would be much appreciated
    Thank you In advance
    Randy

  9. had my 1904 carb rebuilt still has the same problem will not idle it revs up fine but will not idle when i remove my foot from gas filters ok getting gas ok starts ok thanks mike

  10. i do not smell gas but only idles when choke is on have way and the idle screw is turn up this straight 6cly200 is on a 67 mustang and was running great for the last 12 years only use it to go to car shows stared it up this spring revving it up when i started it and now will not idle full the tank with new gas new filters rotor cap and points there is a build of black on the rear muffler pipe when i drive it with the coke half open drive good just runs too fast and not too much power there is no power brake or steering the only vacuum line or the distributor and the pc vale but when i put my hand over half of the carburetor giving it half the air it runs very well and i turn the choke off and turn the idle screw down and was running great

    • Since you don’t smell gas then it’s likely not enough gas. The fact that you don’t drive it much might be part of the problem. Over time gas can turn to varnish coating the inside of the carburetor. Also, ethanol is no friend over time. My guess is that it might be time to rebuild the carburetor. 12 years is a long time seeing it sits quite a bit. It is probably dirty.

      The idle circuit may be plugged or partially plugged.

      Try removing the idle mixture screw and blowing through the hole to remove any obstetrical and try again.

      There should be a filter between the gas tank and carburetor. That should be changed. The 1904 does not have any filters inside the carburetor and is prone to getting dirt inside.

  11. i had the cab rebuilt last week same problem only idles with the coke half way on when i cove the carb with my hams letting only half of the air in it start to run good i take the coke off and idles perfectly only wile i am covering the top of the car with my hands i change both filters on the line and card the car fill half way with gas to level the float

    • You either have a vacuum leak, or are not getting enough fuel through the carburetor. I would need to know which carburetor it is before commenting further.

      • I think if you do not know what the small hole is in the base plate and have the wrong gasket it will not pull vacuum or operate right somehow. There are small holes in the base plate where the carb mounts to the intake and i have seen lots of solid non small hole perforated gaskets if used will cover the small inlet hole in the cast iron base. It is important that this hole has an air passage.

  12. there is no vacuum leak i thing it not getting enough gas to idle i put on a other cab same model 1904 holl and works perfect what would cause not to get enough gas so it will not idle

    • I used to know what every carburetor was made of, but my brain got full of more important information and I lost this information. At any rate I don’t think you can solder on a 1904. I have seen people weld this stuff, but they are 1 in a million. I’m not one of them. I would start looking for a donor carburetor.

      Thanks
      Mike

  13. Hey Mike. I recently repaired a leaky bowl on my 1908 Holly carb on my old Rambler. Now I’ve noticed some seepage from the pump rod sleeve which is leaking down to the bottom of the carb body.
    Any advise on how to stop this seepage/leak? Is a new diaphram needed?
    Please advise.
    Thanks.
    David Weiss

    • There is a hole behind the accelerator pump diaphragm that is a relief hole. There should be no fuel coming out of this hole. If so, then the diaphragm is leaking.

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