|How to Buy Your Holley 1920 Carburetor Kit.
Even when you think your carburetor is the original that came with your car, you cannot be 100% sure you are getting the correct carburetor kit unless you match the carburetor number with the kit. You can always take a chance, but then when things are wrong you end up either shipping your kit back, or worst, having to buy another kit because you cannot return the one you have. Many of our competitors do business exactly that way. They let you order by application alone and take your chances. You certainly have that option, but we would rather see you do your homework and get the correct kit the 1st time. It is cheaper in the long run and we aren’t shipping back and forth.The following are the steps that will insure you get what you need for your carburetor.Find the carburetor numberOnce you have the carburetor number, or in the case of the Holley 1920, 1 barrel, the LIST number, enter it in the search box on our web store and click on GO. The correct kit will be listed.
Can’t find the carburetor number? When you can’t identify your carburetor then you are left to do what we have to do when we run into this situation, compare parts. Below you will find all of the carburetor kits that we carry for the Holley 1920. These kits cover all Holley 1920 carburetor with the exception of one carburetor number.
Hint: Start with the carburetor kit that fits your application 1st. There is a good chance you won’t have to look at the remaining kits. In general you can concentrate on two different parts, flange gasket and accelerator pump diaphragm. Below you will find all of our Holley 1920 carburetor kits. Our attempt here is to point out the differences in the kits so that you can make an intelligent selection.
Reminder: The carburetor number is golden. Match that and you can move on.
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We have 4 different types of chokes, Intregal, Divorced, Electric & Electric Conversion.
The integral choke is mounted on the carburetor, either near the top, or near the bottom. The illustration shows the choke mounted on the top of the carburetor. The thermostat is heated by a heat tube that runs down to the exhaust manifold. The heat tubes heats up the thermostat and moves the choke valve to the open position. A vacuum passage in the carburetor feeds up to the choke housing and helps pull in the heat from the heat tube. Some of these chokes will also have a hot water jacket running through, or on the thermostat to facilitate heating.
The divorced choke typs has the thermostat mounted in the intake manifold instead of on the carburetor. In this illustration, the arrow points to the thermostat which is covered by a metal shield. A rod connects the thermostat to the choke lever, which controls the choke valve to be opened, or closed. As the intake manifold heats up, the thermostat mounted, expands, opening the choke valve.
This is a typical electric choke mounted on the carburetor, which is integral. In this case there is one wire on the choke thermostat. This is the 12v source, which all electric chokes use. The thermostat is grounded via the carburetor itself. Some electric chokes will have a 2nd wire (ground wire), which is connected back to the carburetor. When the key is on the thermostat is heated up, opening the choke valve.
|Electric Choke Conversion
This is a typical electric choke conversion kit. This is used to convert an integral, or a divorced choke to an electric choke. These choke kits come with a temperature sensor that bolts on to the intake manifold, which provides more accurate choke control than with an electric choke without the gauge. The electric choke conversion kit is not used for a manual choke conversion. The choke housing must be in place in order for it to work.