Motorcraft 2150 Carburetor

Replacing the plastic choke lever.

Some of the Motorcraft 2150 carburetors have a plastic choke lever that at 1st glance may look like they cannot be replaced. This lever on the Motorcraft 2100 and early 2150 carburetors were simple to replace.

Watch a video about replacing this lever on the 2100 carburetor.

The later Motorcraft 2150 carburetor is a bit more difficult, but it
just takes a little patience and some work.

Here is what we are talking about.

Motorcraft 2150 Choke

The brass shaft pokes through the brack that envelopes the plastic lever and  instead of a clip securing the end of the shaft, the brass end is mushroomed out. IMPORTANT Рmark the shaft and plastic
so that when you put the parts back together, you will get it all lined
up. Taking some photos of the assembly might help also.

Motorcraft 2150

Remove the C clip as illustrated.

Motorcraft 2150 Plastic Lever

Notice the rectangular hole where the end of the brass shaft ends in the bracket. It may be hard to see, but the end of the brass shaft is cut so that it fits into the bracket and is stationary. There are two
ways you can approach this. One way would be to file the edges of th mushromed end until the shaft can be punched out of the bracket, leaving enough material to be mushromed back out after assembly.  The 2nd way would be to grind the end flush, punch the shaft out, then drill & tap a small hole in the end of the shaft. Using a washer and a screw will hold this in place. This is the approach I took in this case. A #6 x 32 screw would work well in this case, or find a self tapping screw about that size.
Motorcraft 2150 Acceleration Problem
You press on the gas pedal and the engine seems to bog down. What to do?
1st let me say that there are issues besides the carburetor that can make this happen, but since I’m in the carburetor business, I will assume everything else has been taken care of and concentrate on the carburetor. Also I will assume the carburetor has been rebuilt. If not, then that is where I would start.
Most likely this problem lies in the accelerator circuit. Here are some things to look for.
  • Make sure the return spring is between the accelerator pump diaphragm and the carburetor body.
  • Is the red umbrella check valve installed and the big end is on the pump diaphragm side?
  • Check the check weight in the main discharge. This is the middle hole under the venturi cluster. The check ball goes 1st, then the check weight. You can check the check ball to see if is is sealing by holding the check ball down (use a brass drift punch), and operating the throttle. You should feel some pressure because holding down the check ball is sealing the main discharge. If you suspect the ball isn’t sealing, then use a brass drift punch to tap on the ball a few times, which will help form the hole around the check ball.
  • Using thin wire, run through all of the small holes and passage ways. Ethanol will leave deposits behind that normal cleaning will not get out. Pay special attention to the venturi cluster. There are some very small passageways in this assembly and it is very common for them to get plugged up.

After all of this is done add some mineral spirits to the float bowl and operate the accelerator pump. You should see fluid come up through the main discharge (where the check ball and weight is). Replace the venturi cluster and operate the pump again. You should get a fairly strong stream of fluid out of both sides of the venturi.

Do all as mentioned here and you should be able to eliminate your hesitation problem, or at least eliminate the accelerator pump circuit as the cause.