|Carter W-1, 1 Barrel Downdraft Carburetor Questions & Answers. As questions are posted about Carter W-1 problems, the question and possible solutions are posted here.|
|Metering Rod Loose|
The metering rod does not fill the hole. This is normal and under normal operating conditions gas does not spill out this hole. If it is, then there is a flooding situation. There does need to be a washer over the metering rod as depicted in the photo, but it might help with gas splashing out some.
|Throttle Shaft Loose|
There was some play in the throttle shaft and I’m wondering if that is something you can repair as I’m getting a pretty good fuel leak at the shaft. If you don’t do this repair is there a bushing kit you offer?Gas is coming from the shaft because the carburetor is flooding and gas is running down to the throttle plate and out of the shaft.
Shafts can never be tight enough to seal.
We do not do repairs, but I have a couple of people that do it well. See our recommended companies here.
We do have bushings, but they are sold by size. Don’t know what the W-1 takes as they seldom need it.
Find out why your carburetor is flooding. Once that is fixed the leak out of the throttle shaft should stop.
|Where do the jets go?
The idle jet is attached to the small plug which goes into the bottom of a W-1’s bowl (as opposed to the very large plug for the accel. pump check valves). The plug which goes in horizontally near the idle mixture screw simply covers a fixed orifice drilled into the casting.
The only “economizer jet” in a W-1 is the main jet (in the bottom of the bowl) as it interacts with the throttle-position-controlled metering rod. This is true of most Carter main metering systems, whether activated mechanically or by vacuum (BB carbs being one exception I can think of).
|Concave washer problems
The W-1 uses a copper washer sometimes concaved. If you experience a leak at any of these spots check to make sure the old washer is removed. They hide well and often get missed.
|I recently bought a Carter w1 kit. I removed a couple of the screws on the side of the carburetor. It looks like there are brass washers that are pressed into the opening. How do I remove them without destroying the threads in the hole?
Use an awl, or pick to pry up on it. The threads are tough.
Answer: The washers in the kit are correct for the carburetor number it includes. Unfortunately we don’t have any flat washers that I can send you. My guess is that you have copper washers, which would be impossible to find. My suggestion would be to re-use your old washers. Clean then well and for extra measure get some Permatex anaerobic and put a very small amount on both sides of the washers. This will go a long ways to make sure they seal.
Only Runs With Choke Partially Closed
Washer at the bottom of accelerator pump well
There is a fiber washer which (when new) sealed the brass accel. pump tube to the floor of the casting. I tried only once to replace that washer; BIG mistake!
What I do to ensure sealing is to bead-blast around the bottom of the brass pump cylinder where it joins the iron casting as best I can. I then take some Permatex Threadlocker Green (it is designed to seep in between any tolerance-fit objects); I use just enough that it runs all the way around the outside of the bottom of the pump cylinder. Then I heat it using a Map/Pro gas torch to flash-cure the Permatex, and presto: no more leaks.
Plugs are black, there is a gas smell after turning off the engine.
Follow the idle mixture hole up through the carburetor by blowing air through the passage. Air is carried to the idle mixture and mixed with the gas. The passage may be plugged.
It is important to separate flooding issues from heat soak, or percolation.
Heat soak and/or percolation can occur when the engine gets hot and comes to a idle, or off status. The fuel then boils causing it to flood over the top, or perhaps evaporate quickly.
Flooding occurs when too much fuel in getting into the float bowl and floods over the top.
Both conditions above can cause fuel to run out of the throttle shaft. This doesn’t mean the shaft is loose, it is just an easy place for the fuel to run out.
What can cause the flooding:
- The float is filling up with fuel. Heat up some water just prior to boiling and immerse the float. Any leaks will show up with bubbles.
- Is the viton tip damaged. Look for any scoring. These are easily damaged when pressure is put on the needle while adjusting the float.
- Check the float adjustment, both float level and float drop.
- Did the old gasket under the seat get completely removed. We have seen these get crusted over to where it looks like the carburetor itself.
- Make sure the gasket isn’t cracked.
- Look for any cracks around the seat.
- Test your fuel pump. Should be around 2 lbs, but verify this with your motors manual.
The low speed jet needs to fit tight in order to get a good seal. Use a tapered pointed object to push into the opening and re-form it to be opened a bit more so that it fits tight. Be careful you don’t split it.