We carry a wide assortment of electric choke kits (conversion). These are used to replace your hot air choke on either integral, or divorced choke types. See type of chokes.
The not air chokes are becoming a bit of a problem due to lack of part availability and often times custom installations.
The electric choke kits do not convert manual chokes to electric unless the original choke housing exists.
Housings that contain the pull-down piston must also have the piston installed.
Block the hot air inlet.
Electric choke kits includes easy to follow instructions.
What about aftermarket intake manifolds such as edelbrock on the divorced choke types?
The divorce choke needs to be bolted to the manifold. So as long as that spot is still there it’ll work just fine. The only thing that really is needed is the height and spot to bolt the bracket to. The spot referred to is where the divorced choke thermostat resided. The height is for the rod length. Spacers added to the carburetor base raises the carburetor up so the rod that is included in the kit may not be long enough. People put spacers in and we need to send a 1.5in long rods out. Our chokes will work on any carb out there it’s just having it link up to the carb or bolt on the carb housings.
Testing the ohms on a choke conversion thermostat. Only necessary if you suspect a problem. The ohms will vary depending on the heat of the intake manifold.
Note: hitting the choke in a table will jar the spring inside to the correct position. It will also reset the Ptc and spring. All the superchokes should be around 10 ohms or less. 7-11 ohms When ohms aren’t inside the specs something is wrong inside and a quick smack may fix it. Bad ohms = 100k ohms -100 ohms etc. Must be tested on the big terminal and the brass on the bottom of the choke.